MOISHES: A ST. LAURENT MAINSTAY FOR 70 YEARS

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Some things never change. They’re always there like landmarks in our lives, and it could be said that Moishes is certainly one of those gastronomic mainstays in Montreal. The same family has been running this steakhouse on St. Laurent Street for more than 70 years.

I must have passed by this famous, yet discretely located, second-floor restaurant a thousand times, but it was with great pleasure and curiosity that I finally went in for the first time last week. In fact, I didn’t just walk in, I was ushered in — Moishes is one few restaurants in Montreal with a doorman…

This doorman, who’s been there for eight years already, is always faithfully waiting at his post, rain or shine, ready to greet all the restaurant’s regulars.

And a lot of the clients are regulars. Families get together for dinner, men dine with friends, and couples come for romantic nights out. Everyone looks about as comfortable as they would at home in their living rooms.

Once I took my seat, I understood why it’s good that some things — especially when it comes to food — never change. Right from the get-go, potatoes and coleslaw are brought to the table. I must say, they were the best pickles I ever had, while the coleslaw was just right — not too ‘vinegary’ and not too ‘mayonnaisey’ like you usually get elsewhere.

Originally from Romania, the Lighter family offers traditional Eastern European Jewish cuisine, and of course, some of the best steak in town. They age all their beef for 30 days and it is always grilled to perfection, whether you like it rare, blue or well done. Why reinvent recipes that are tried and true?

In fact, Moishes has made a name for itself with meat grilled over charcoal, which is infinitely better than meat cooked on a grill. As an appetizer, the chopped liver and marinated red peppers were also cooked over charcoal, followed by bone-in filet mignon. The lamb chops were equally succulent. Yum. Doesn’t remotely compare to what I make on my BBQ at home.

To accompany my enormous plates of meat, I was served various potato dishes. There were succulent verenekes (boiled and fried), crispy potato latkes, french fries and their famous twice-baked potatoes (the cooked potato is hollowed out and then refilled with mashed potato and baked once more).

And is if that wasn’t enough, I washed it down with an excellent Marion du Vénéto Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yep, here’s hoping that some things never change. Especially Moishes.

Moishes
3961 St-Laurent, Montreal, Qc, H2W 1Y4 (514) 845-3509

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