Stelio Perombelon is one of those talented Montreal chefs who’s been around for a few years. He has worked in some of the city’s best restaurants, including the legendary and now defunct Les Chèvres. For the past few months, his colourful and refined contemporary French cuisine has taken center stage at Sinclair, the latest incarnation of the Le Saint-Sulpice hotel’s restaurant in Old Montreal…
Don’t be put off by the “underground” (literally) location of the Sinclair. The space is beautiful, with sleek design accents, a long marble bar that makes you want to linger with cocktail in hand and a fantastic cellar, both in terms of look and choices. The service we received when I was there was impeccable with a discreet yet knowledgeable staff taking care of our every need.
Sinclair might be a bit dark décor wise but it acts as the perfect background for Chef Perombelon’s light and sunny dishes. The menu changes often so the dishes pictured here might not be available when you visit but that’s not important, because chef Perombelon’s light touch and attention to detail are present in all of his creations. The combination of flavours, textures and precise cooking methods are a pleasure to experience.
One dish that has been on the menu since the opening is the ice cider marinated leeks with smoked marrow and foie gras snow. I must admit that I am not a fan of onions in general and the thought of biting into a big piece of leek was a bit worrisome the first time. However, I have ordered this dish again and again since. The richness of the marrow and the light foie gras “snow” is offset by the freshness of the soft poached leeks to create the perfect balance.
No matter how full you feel after your meal, the desserts at Sinclair are not to be missed! They are as beautiful as they are scrumptious. Right now, the Quebec strawberry “tart” with goat’s milk panna cotta and rhubarbe gelée is absolutely delicious so is the almost-too-pretty-to-eat stewed plum dessert with white chocolate crumble.
Note: Chef Perombelon is participating in Balnea’s L’été des chefs. He will be presenting his creation, a beautiful marinated trout, lettuce vichyssoise, organic tomatoes, sorrel and nasturtium concoction at the spa on Sunday, September 2. The dish will be served at Balnea on the week of September 3 and at Sinclair all summer until mid-September.