It’s harvest time again in Montreal, the maple leaves have turned and leaf peepers crown the country roads on weekends, mixing with the trucks that bring the produce in to stock the cold rooms of the city’s top artisans. This is perhaps the season when our culinary uniqueness is the most obvious. The thing is, we have the same crops here as do many cities in our latitude – mushrooms, greens, tomatoes, squash – and yet our chefs always find new and ever more appealing ways to showcase the season’s bounty.