But then…. I simply couldn’t resist stopping for a drink and a bite at Joe Beef, the famous little restaurant that sits on a stretch of Notre-Dame called Little Burgundy. After shutting down for renovations, it had just reopened and I was anxious to see the new look (turns out the now-extinct nextdoor neighbour McKiernan Luncheonette, of the same owners, has been annexed to Joe Beef and has become its oyster bar). Nice!

The sun had set but the sky was still bright and bluish-mauve as I hopped back on the bike and continued on my way to Quattro. The workout made me hungry and I was even considering  following my papaerdelle with the cotoletta di vitello alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet) – I’d been told it’s their specialty. And maybe some tiramisù for dessert? Despite the name, the restaurant is owned not by four, but  three guys – all Italian, apparently. “Quit food-dreaming and keep pedalling”, I thought to myself as I entered Old Montreal, still riding along Notre Dame, hungrier and thirstier by the second. That’s when I saw the familiar deer antlers that I instantly recognized: L’Orignal restaurant, one of my faves! I locked up the bike thinking I’d stop for a quick appetizer of oysters and Chablis.

What amazing oysters! Luckily, master shucker Daniel Notkin was behind the bar. Watching him work his magic at lightning speed and discarding many oysters that don’t pass his smell test is quite the spectacle. This self-professed “oysterologist”, founder of the annual Oysterfest festival in Montreal, simply keeps you glued to your bar stool as he chats and describes the week’s offerings and the special characteristics of each oyster. He’ll say things like “these angels are firm and meaty, with a good amount of salt, and a mix of different sea grass flavors that ends on a beautiful minerality”, to the great amusement of the clients. Before I knew it, I was ordering another dozen!

Long story short, by the time I was finished with my two glasses of excellent Chablis and 18 oysters it was past 11 and I suddenly realized I couldn’t possibly continue the gastronomic marathon while still expecting to make it home, alive, by bike. With a tinge of regret, I left l`Orignal – a mere three blocks from Quattro – and turned around for the ride home…

THE DETAILS

Joe Beef, 2491 Notre Dame West, (514) 935-6504,

L’Orignal, 479 rue Saint-Alexis (at Notre Dame), (514) 303-0479

Quattro: 17 Notre Dame West, (514) 903-2909

Photo Credit: Ristorante Quattro, Alexandra Forbes

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Antique furniture collectors are very familiar with the wealth of goodies available on Montreal’s famed Antique Row (a.k.a. rue Notre Dame). If the word “antique” to you denotes dainty porcelain teacups or Baroque Louis XIV legs, there’s a whole other side to furniture shopping that may surprise you…

Mid-century modern styles (or “inspired styles” thereof) have become synonymous with contemporary living. Here’s a beginner’s checklist of shops in Montreal (each one in a different neighbourhood) where homeowners can peruse such finds – some original, some not-so-original, but maybe just the thing your urban pad is lacking.

(TIP- all of these addresses ship to the U.S. Ask owners for details.)

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MILE END

Shop: Phil’z 20^th Century

5298 St-Laurent

(514) 278-2323

Owner: Phil Markowitch

This choice find a little north of the downtown core (in what many consider the hippest corner of the land) has been around for 30 years. The space is a hodgepodge of décor gems starting from the 1930s. Markowitch also restores vintage pieces and refurbishes avant-garde industrial pieces “for the comforts of the home.”

Designer Name-dropping: There always seems to be a good selection of Eames chairs, but shoppers will also be pleased to find rare, eclectic finds from several different decades, especially the 1970s.

Nearby Nibble: Markowitch says “Go to Restaurant L’Atelier (5308 St-Laurent) for a classy lunch; their specialty is foie gras.” Or Burger de Ville (5282 St-Laurent) “for a relaxed lunch and the best burger in Mile End.”

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THE VILLAGE

Shop: Cité Déco Meubles

1761 Amherst

(514) 528-0659

Owner: André Demondo

There’s a varied selection ranging from art deco to modern styles from the 30s to 80s, with lots of hip Italian pieces. Demondo receives new stock every day and has been sourcing for 19 years from estate sales, friends, customers and “anything I can get my hands on.” He also specialized in armchairs and reupholstering.

Designer Name-dropping: Stock is always changing but you’ll find things like an original teak armchair from 1959 by Vodder with original fabric, the classic Eames lounge chair and ottoman and a Paulin love seat.

Nearby Nibble: “Just up the block is Uchi Sushi (1799 Amherst). They have really good sushi.”

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LITTLE BURGUNDY

Shop: Leo Victor

2480 Notre-Dame ouest

(514) 939-3888

Owner: Guyleine Bureau

Bureau opened this bright and cheery boutique three years ago. The loft-like space contrasts with the more traditional antique shops on this main thoroughfare with her selection of modern and contemporary furniture – all of it new. A good bet for first-time buyers thanks to the affordable prices, which is, according to Bureau, about one-third the price of what you’re likely pay elsewhere.

Designer Name-dropping: You’ll find reproductions (read: copies) of iconic chairs such as the Egg and Swan chairs by Jacobsen, Barcelona by Mies van der Rohe, and Corona by Volther.

Nearby Nibble: Bureau goes to Café Lily & Oli (2515 Notre Dame ouest) for the “best lattés”.

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Little Burgundy was originally a town known as Sainte-Cunegonde that became part of the city of Montreal around the turn of the century. It was home to the Canadian Pacific Railway yards and the Steel Company of Canada, companies for whom many of its residents worked. It was home to most of Montreal’s black working-class citizens. For such a small neighbourhood, it has produced a remarkably high number of Montreal’s most beloved and respected citizens. It boasts two Governor Generals- Michaëlle Jean, who spent part of her childhood in the area and George Vanier, who grew up near the street and metro station now named for him. But one of the area’s most important contributions to the city has been in the area of music. It was home to some of the best nightclubs in the city, like Rockhead’s Paradise, which would regularly have jazz legends like Billie Holiday, Sarah Vaughan and Sammy Davis Jr. up on stage. It makes sense, therefore, that two of Canada’s most respected jazz musicians, Oliver Jones and Oscar Peterson, grew up in Little Burgundy. The connection to music has remained- the international music label Ninja Tune has its North American offices in the neighbourhood.

The Atwater Market marks where St-Henri ends and Little Burgundy begins. From there, it stretches to Mountain Street in the east and is delineated by the Lachine Canal to the south and Saint-Antoine in the north. But if we’re talking about streets, none is more prominent that Notre Dame West, which functions as the neighbourhood’s main artery. Though many people talk about the gentrification of Montreal’s residential areas, Little Burgundy is one of the few that you notice immediately. The reopening of the Lachine Canal for pleasure boating (a term I absolutely love) helped and there are new developments everywhere. Since I don’t live in the neighbourhood, I’m not going to comment on what this is or isn’t doing for the neighbourhood. I do, however, visit fairly regularly to eat and/or drink and the list below should convince you pretty clearly why this is one of the more interesting neighbourhood’s in the area…

JOE BEEF: Joe Beef, Liverpool House, McKiernan: The owners and chefs of this trio of restaurants, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, named their flagship resto after a legendary Montreal tavern owner whose establishment was filled not only with working class patrons, but a zoo’s worth of animals, including a bear said to drink up to 20 pints of beer a day. If this New York Times review from 1881 is to be believed, it sure sounded like a good time. While they may not be quite as wild as the namesake, all three spots are unpretentious, imbued their own distinct personalities and serve some of the best food in the city.

BURGUNDY LION: Right across the street is the Burgundy Lion, a pub with a modern feel that serves as a community meeting point. They regularly host great DJ and Quiz nights and their food is no joke: pub grub 2.0.

RESTAURANT JANE: If the Joe Beef trifecta are the area’s culinary stars, Jane is the up-and-coming food star. Though they rotate the very appealing chalkboard specials, the real draw here is the next-level pizza and cocktails. The fact that chef Ryan Dixon calls it an “Italo-American-Jewish-deli-bistro-pizza joint” should tell you that it doesn’t take itself too seriously.

LE BOUCAN: If you want some straight-up, authentic BBQ in a place that will always have the hockey game on, this is the spot for you. The  “5 napkin” hamburger and the massive multi-animal Pit Bull platters are favorites of the regulars, but if you’d like to learn a little more check out this Food Network follow-up to their recent TV appearance.

BONNYS: After the meat-frenzy of Boucan, it seems fitting that I mention Bonnys, Montreal’s best veggie and vegan-friendly restaurant, takeout spot and catering service.

PARISIAN LAUNDRY: It’s not just food in Little Burgundy, in case you were getting that impression for some reason. This gallery hosts art exhibits and concerts but the space itself is as much of a draw- built in 1933, it was actually originally used as a commercial  laundry complex and, after a recent overhaul, has become one the city’s most interesting spaces.

QUARTIER DES ANTIQUAIRES: As befitting the “Antiques Quarter” name, this area boasts one of the largest concentrations of antiques shops in the country. Spots like Milford Antiques, Rowntree, Old Time Antiques are just a few of the many spots to antiquing.

CORONA THEATRE: This historic theatre right in the heart of everything has found new life playing host to as eclectic a lineup of events as any place in the city can boast: you’ll find everything from dance to theatre to hip hop nights.

CAFE LILY ET OLI: Great coffee in a really relaxed place is about all the upselling this spot needs.

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