It’s hard to believe for newcomers to the city how many people can actually fit on the field that extends between Pine Avenue and Mont-Royal Avenue at the foot of the city’s most famous monument, the St-Georges Étienne Cartier sculpture that marks the bottom of Mount Royal. Montrealers may have delusions of grandeur when we call our beloved bump a mountain, but it doesn’t diminish how naturally splendiferous and pleasant it is in this park landscaped by the man behind New York’s Central Park. When Frederick Law Olsmsted conceived of things in 1874, though, I bet he didn’t picture the massive gathering of half-clothed picnickers, dancers and drummers that gathers here every Sunday.

Started unofficially in the early 1990s, the Montreal Tam-tams have become a genuine institution. From noon to sundown every Sunday it’s like a communal garden party, featuring everything from bocci games on the lawn to cucumber sandwich-picnics to hacky sack battles, to capoeira demonstrations and LARPING galore. There’s also a bustling marketplace too, set out on blankets, where you can buy craft jewelry, vintage clothing, juggling accessories and percussion instruments of every sort.

The centerpiece, though, is the alfresco, sunbathed dance floor that forms on the marble steps around the monument, and the masses of percussionists – most amateur, some good enough to be pro ­– surrounding them. The beat sets the tone for the whole neighbourhood, wafting in and out of jams like the beating of so many hearts. After you’ve taken in the scene and people watched your heart out, make sure you stroll up that bump for a while – as the beat softens with every step, you’ll find a whole other kind of sensorial escape.

THE DETAILS

Montreal Tam-Tams takes place at the foot of Mount Royal, on Parc Avenue between Pine and Mont-Royal, every spring and summer Sunday from noon to sundown.

Photos by Eva Blue

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The Montreal City Hop-on Hop-off Tour is a unique way to see the landmarks of Montreal. Running from May through October, the bus tour has 10 stops along its route you can disembark, explore, and then rejoin at the next bus passing. The tour is narrated by a professional guide that paints a nice picture of Montreal history and joie de vie. From Habitat 67 to Saint Joseph’s Oratory, the tour spans much of downtown, bits of the Plateau, Mount-Royal and the Old Port. Tickets are $55 but combined with the tour guide and the hop-on hop-off style that allows you to explore all day makes the price well worth it. Tickets available at Tourist Information Center (1001 Dorchester Square)

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First up, Ice Fishing in the Old Port. What I love most about Ice Fishing in the Old Port is doing for hearty laughs and good instagram photos, what the founders of Montreal did bitterly for survival probably in this exact spot hundreds of years ago. Back then many did not survive. Today on the other hand, we can enjoy the 300, 000 feet of ice in heated shelters, and all the materials necessary to catch species like walleye, perch and burbot. Check out their website to find out how to reserve. Big groups and families welcome!

Aptly nicknamed “Chess on Ice” – curling is a game of strategy, wit, and ice sweeping. Back in the 18th century, Scottish soldiers would play this sport out of modified cannonballs. At the Stewart Museum on Ile-Sainte-Helene you can slide and brush your way back in time with costumed instructors, cups of hot broth, and ye ol’ tales around a crackling fire. I don’t know if it’s against the rules, but how much fun would hot toddies and old-fashioned curling be? Especially when there are period costumes involved. Check out the details here.

I remember the first time I went snowshoeing as a child; I was convinced that this is what like walking on the moon felt like. I’ll admit that when I went snowshoeing last year, logic held no place in my heart and still thought the same thing. Starting January 5 and going all the way until March 9, strap on a pair and see the wonders of Montreal from Mount Royal in a 75 minute guided tour on snowshoes. The family-friendly trek starts shortly after sunset, and it might not take you to the moon, but from atop the mountain you’ll certainly feel a lot closer.

Many Canadian children learn to skate before they learn to walk. Nothing beats gliding atop frozen water like a wintery Jesus and pretending you’re Joannie Rochette. Montreal has tones of places to skate this winter: The beautiful Bonsecours Basin with the Montreal skyline in the background, Beaver Lake surrounded by the urban wilderness of Mont-Royal, the winter wonderland of Parc Lafontaine, or the hockey loving Maisonneuve Park. Hate the cold? Try Le 1000 Atrium at 1000 De La Gauchetiere West for an indoor simulated skating experience sans frostbite.

Just because we can’t watch the NHL this winter, doesn’t mean we can’t get our fill of ice game. The Stars de Montreal is the Women’s hockey team! Remember these are many of the same women who have lead Canada to gold medal victory at the past three winter Olympic games. They’ll be playing home games December 8 & 9 plus January 19 & 20. Plus tickets are only $10!

If you’ve never tried Cross-Country Skiing before, chances are you’ve made fun of Cross-Country skiing. If ice fishing and curling doesn’t torch enough calories for you, then look no further than the deceptive nature of Cross-Country. This is a serious workout, and can be a fun challenge if you’ve never tried it before. Note: If you’ve never done it before, take a lesson because it’s far more difficult than just willing yourself forward. Check out trails on Mont Royal, Parc Maissonneuve, Cap Saint-Jacques or the Bois de L’Ile Bizard. Although if it snows enough this holiday seasons, there’s nothing stopping you from skiing anywhere really.

“Toboggan” comes from the French-Canadian word “tabaganne” which comes from the Native American (Micmac) word “topagan” which means, “sled.” Now, I would never claim to be a skilled tobogganist, but there is a certain art to it. The art being going fast enough to be “yay toboggan!” but not so fast you crash and smash your pelvis. Which my friend has done tobogganing. The best tobogganing in Montreal is on Mont Royal by Beaver Lake. Although all you really need is a snowy hill. So look, climb, and conquer. Be safe and wear a helmet!

Last but not least, my favorite winter sporting activity: Outdoor Aerobics during Igloofest. Put on your sleekest snowsuit, channel your best Fonda, and jazzercise yourself slimmer to the beats of the best DJs in quite possibly the coolest (pun not intended, and it stays) atmosphere ever. Also, instead of icky water like at a real aerobics session, you can refresh on breaks with not-water, ergo alcohol.

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2010 has been a busy year for the Montreal Street Profile series. We started with Bleury, Parc, Maisonneuve, Saint-Paul and Saint-Zotique. We visited Crescent, Greene Avenue, Sainte-Catherine and Saint-Denis. For our final installment of the year (hint: make sure to come back in 2011!), we thought a stroll down Mount-Royal was in order, in no small part because it offers some very “a la Montreal” shopping that is perfect for the holiday season…

Given that it starts at Mount Royal, it’s not hard to figure out where Mount-Royal Avenue gets its name. Of all the streets we’ve profiled, this one has perhaps the most iconic landmarks of them all: you can look down from its mountainous starting point and see the Big O, where it ends. (Our exploration will a bit shorter than that.) It is a totally charming street, as “Montreal” as they come, especially in the summer when a large portion of it is blocked off from traffic. It boasts some of the city’s classic diners, some great restaurants and cool bars and, while Saint-Catherine may boast the big name stores, Mount-Royal boasts the cool independent shops that you won’t find anywhere else…

Beauty’s: Perhaps the only thing on Mount-Royal to rival the mountain and the Big O in iconic status is Beauty’s, the breakfast and brunch spot that has been a favourite of Montrealers since 1942. Everything is pretty spot-on here, but do not visit without getting one of their famous smoothies.

Binerie: Any greasy spoon that has its own Wikipedia entry is obviously a big deal. Opened (and virtually unchanged) since 1938, as the name suggests the star of the show here is mighty bean, but this is truly a mecca of traditional Quebecois foods like tourtière, pea soup and sugar pie.

Meow: A perfect example of the great vintage/retro/cool t-shirt/weird awesome little object shops that Mount-Royal does especially well.

Old Gold: This small spot is sort of a curated store, with great vintage clothes mixed with expertly chosen hard-to-find brands. Especially good for men’s stuff.

Paul’s Boutique: A record shop that is a goldmine of hard-to-find vinyl. And yes, the Beastie Boys have been here and given it the thumbs up.

Caffe Art Java: If you need a coffee and you’re Mount-Royal, I command you to get it here.

Cannelle: A lady I know told me that they make clothes here that many ladies like. She also told me that Bella Pella makes other stuff that ladies like. I cannot confirm any of this.

Salle a Manger: Chef Samuel Pinard’s open-kitchen resto that focuses on locally-sourced foods is one of the city’s rising food stars, a fun and relaxed place that has an entire section devoted to feeding large groups. So, if you’re craving an entire suckling pig, this is the place.

Au Cinquième Péché: Though Salle a Manger may be the star, absolutely consider this tiny-in-size-only French bistro that focuses on some truly-outside-the-box food. So, if you’re wondering where you could have seal done three ways, this is the place. Last year I had a 5-hour food extravaganza there that I can still taste.

Belmont: Though technically on St-Laurent, the Belmont is close enough to Mount-Royal to deserve a mention. It’s really two totally different bars in one: a pint-and-pool place that eventually gives way to a nightclub that boasts some of the best electronic music in the city.

O Patro Vys: My favorite drink spot however is found in this downstairs/upstairs combo. Upstairs at O Patro Vys, you can see shows of all sorts before/after/during heading down to Bily Kun for their unique drinks that include absinthe and all sorts of Czech and Polish boozes that you can’t find anywhere else in the city.

La Porte Rouge: La Porte Rouge might just be the bar star of Mount-Royal, managing to walk that fine line of retro-kitsch, the fun-but-not-tacky appeal that pretty much everyone loves.

Candi Bar: Candi Bar, however, appeals to a more specific clientele. This cocktail spot looks like someone exploded a couple martinis inside a box of toys.

As I always say, this is just a small sampling of what the street has to offer. But, if there were ever a stroll-able street that requires no advance planning, Mount-Royal is it.

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