Little Burgundy was originally a town known as Sainte-Cunegonde that became part of the city of Montreal around the turn of the century. It was home to the Canadian Pacific Railway yards and the Steel Company of Canada, companies for whom many of its residents worked. It was home to most of Montreal’s black working-class citizens. For such a small neighbourhood, it has produced a remarkably high number of Montreal’s most beloved and respected citizens. It boasts two Governor Generals- Michaëlle Jean, who spent part of her childhood in the area and George Vanier, who grew up near the street and metro station now named for him. But one of the area’s most important contributions to the city has been in the area of music. It was home to some of the best nightclubs in the city, like Rockhead’s Paradise, which would regularly have jazz legends like Billie Holiday, Sarah Vaughan and Sammy Davis Jr. up on stage. It makes sense, therefore, that two of Canada’s most respected jazz musicians, Oliver Jones and Oscar Peterson, grew up in Little Burgundy. The connection to music has remained- the international music label Ninja Tune has its North American offices in the neighbourhood.

The Atwater Market marks where St-Henri ends and Little Burgundy begins. From there, it stretches to Mountain Street in the east and is delineated by the Lachine Canal to the south and Saint-Antoine in the north. But if we’re talking about streets, none is more prominent that Notre Dame West, which functions as the neighbourhood’s main artery. Though many people talk about the gentrification of Montreal’s residential areas, Little Burgundy is one of the few that you notice immediately. The reopening of the Lachine Canal for pleasure boating (a term I absolutely love) helped and there are new developments everywhere. Since I don’t live in the neighbourhood, I’m not going to comment on what this is or isn’t doing for the neighbourhood. I do, however, visit fairly regularly to eat and/or drink and the list below should convince you pretty clearly why this is one of the more interesting neighbourhood’s in the area…

JOE BEEF: Joe Beef, Liverpool House, McKiernan: The owners and chefs of this trio of restaurants, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, named their flagship resto after a legendary Montreal tavern owner whose establishment was filled not only with working class patrons, but a zoo’s worth of animals, including a bear said to drink up to 20 pints of beer a day. If this New York Times review from 1881 is to be believed, it sure sounded like a good time. While they may not be quite as wild as the namesake, all three spots are unpretentious, imbued their own distinct personalities and serve some of the best food in the city.

BURGUNDY LION: Right across the street is the Burgundy Lion, a pub with a modern feel that serves as a community meeting point. They regularly host great DJ and Quiz nights and their food is no joke: pub grub 2.0.

RESTAURANT JANE: If the Joe Beef trifecta are the area’s culinary stars, Jane is the up-and-coming food star. Though they rotate the very appealing chalkboard specials, the real draw here is the next-level pizza and cocktails. The fact that chef Ryan Dixon calls it an “Italo-American-Jewish-deli-bistro-pizza joint” should tell you that it doesn’t take itself too seriously.

LE BOUCAN: If you want some straight-up, authentic BBQ in a place that will always have the hockey game on, this is the spot for you. The  “5 napkin” hamburger and the massive multi-animal Pit Bull platters are favorites of the regulars, but if you’d like to learn a little more check out this Food Network follow-up to their recent TV appearance.

BONNYS: After the meat-frenzy of Boucan, it seems fitting that I mention Bonnys, Montreal’s best veggie and vegan-friendly restaurant, takeout spot and catering service.

PARISIAN LAUNDRY: It’s not just food in Little Burgundy, in case you were getting that impression for some reason. This gallery hosts art exhibits and concerts but the space itself is as much of a draw- built in 1933, it was actually originally used as a commercial  laundry complex and, after a recent overhaul, has become one the city’s most interesting spaces.

QUARTIER DES ANTIQUAIRES: As befitting the “Antiques Quarter” name, this area boasts one of the largest concentrations of antiques shops in the country. Spots like Milford Antiques, Rowntree, Old Time Antiques are just a few of the many spots to antiquing.

CORONA THEATRE: This historic theatre right in the heart of everything has found new life playing host to as eclectic a lineup of events as any place in the city can boast: you’ll find everything from dance to theatre to hip hop nights.

CAFE LILY ET OLI: Great coffee in a really relaxed place is about all the upselling this spot needs.

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A little bit south and a little bit west of downtown Montreal sits Saint-Henri. Though it gets a lot of press for being one of the city’s most “up-and-coming” neighbourhoods, the real key to Saint-Henri is that it is still very much what it always was…

“Up-and-coming” goes hand-in-hand with that other urban buzzword, “gentrification”. Saint-Henri certainly has its share of converted lofts and expensive condos but it remains true to its original roots. It was, and still is in large part, French and working class- as Gabrielle Roy’s celebrated novel The Tin Flute so artfully explored. Heading west from Atwater until you get to about St-Remi and north of the Lachine Canal until around St-Jacques, those things that make Saint-Henri worth a visit often manage to bring something new to the neighbourhood while keeping its past in mind. Here are some of my favorite things about the little ‘hood that could…

Atwater Market: Atwater Market ( pictured above) is not only one of Saint-Henri’s prime attractions, but one of the city’s as a whole. First opened in 1933 and housed in a Ludger Lemieux-designed building, it’s a huge market with everything a person who likes food could ask for. Especially rich in specialty products you won’t find anywhere else. PS- a little less known is the Farmers Market on the corner of St. Remi and Notre-Dame that is open on Saturdays during the non-freezing cold months.

McAuslan Brewery: Just the fact that it produces St-Ambroise and Griffon beers would be enough for me to mention it and a beer tasting should probably be penciled into your plans. But what has truly cemented its importance to the community is the Centre St-Ambroise, which hosts everything from folk fests to DJ nights. It also boasts a pretty darn cute video about how-to-get-there.

Sir George Étienne Cartier Park: Easily one of Montreal’s most picturesque urban green spaces, this rectangular park has a fountain as a focal point and is bordered by some beautiful houses- a perfect little piece of Montreal. Though it is the area’s clear showstopper, there are several smaller parks within walking distance filled with soccer fields, tennis courts and more within.

Tuck Shop: The nearby neighbourhood Little Burgundy has become known for its restaurants, but the recent arrival of the hip, happening and entirely delicious Tuck Shop might mean the same for Saint-Henri. A laidback bistro with top-quality chefs who clearly make use of the nearby market when preparing their wares.

Caffè Mariani: The area’s other go-to spot for local foodies and coffee-cravers, Mariani excels at paninis and pizzas with a bit of pizzazz but its biggest draw may its unobstructed view of the park.

Greasy Spoons: Look, sometimes you just want to eat some greasy, delicious food and this neighbourhood does that very well. So much so that some intrepid citizen put together a slide show of some of the best. Miracle Pizzeria (4009 Rue Notre-Dame) gets my vote.

Shopping: I’d be lying if I said I’d ever been shopping for stuff in Saint-Henri, but if I did, La Gaillarde and Perfide certainly look cool.

Resto Bar St-Jacques: You’re probably not going to find this place in any tourist guides and it’s definitely a little rough around the edges, but local promoters Pirates of the Lachine Canal do a weekly punk night there every Wednesday which is pretty good time. If that’s up your back alley, you should also consider a visit to Black Jack. And frankly, this is exactly the point: go visit the neighbourhood before all of Saint-Henri’s rough edges get all smoothed out.

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Walking through Montreal’s Chinatown, you’ll hear French, English, Mandarin, Cantonese and Vietnamese. You’ll also be drooling like a little puppy over the smell of dumplings, fried shrimp, Peking Duck, Crispy Chicken and Lobster dishes. Not to mention, you’ll be tempted by the Gods of Shopping thanks to superb gift ideas including silky soft kimonos, lingerie, crafts, tea pots, china and much much more.

Take a look at the video and allow me to take you on a little tour. You’ll see… Montreal’s Chinatown is a very pleasant place to be and it clearly deserves putting aside an hour or two of your time in the city.

As mentioned in the clip above, Montreal’s Chinatown was once home to Montreal’s Jewish community, with thousands of Yiddish speaking immigrants settling in the area from 1890 to 1920. Chinese immigrants then moved to the area, mainly on De La Gauchetière Street (which is now pedestrian for your strolling amusement) and lower St-Laurent Boulevard.

It is bordered to the South by Viger Street (where you’ll find your nearest metro station – Place d’Armes) and to the North by René Lévesque Boulevard.

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Here are some of my personal recommendations

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[TEA AND GIFT IDEAS]

My Cup of Tea, 1057A St-Laurent

[DUMPLINGS]

Mai Xiang Yuan, 1084 St-Laurent

[VIETNAMESE SOUP]

Pho Bang New York, 1001 St-Laurent

[LATE-NIGHT CRAVINGS]

Restaurant Beijing,  92 De La Gauchetière West

[FRUITS AND VEGETABLES]

Épicerie Kien Xuong, 1076 St-Laurent

[CAKE, PASTRIES, BUBBLE TEA]

Patisserie La Légende, 50 De La Gauchetière West

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**Insider Tip : Not responsable for weight gain

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For many travelers who reminisce about their trip to Montréal, memories of tree lined streets, spiral staircases and colorful houses begin to surface. There is no neighborhood more synonymous with these images than ‘The Plateau.’

The Plateau is the Greenwich Village of Montréal. With the highest concentration of artists in any Canadian district, the bohemian aura of this neighborhood is visually palpable: stunning urban art, relaxed café terraces and fashionably clad individuals.

It consistently ranks among the hippest neighborhoods in North America. Why? Because here art meets nightlife. Because older Portuguese woman share the sidewalk with uber-chic, young indie musicians. Because you can have $5 empanadas for lunch and then haute cuisine at a French bistro for dinner.  Because the vintage clothing boutiques and used record shops inspire new looks and sounds that continue to resonate when travelers return home.

Plateau Mont-Royal is edgy urban vitality.

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Here are some of our classic Plateau recommendations:

[park] LA FONTAINE – This is where Montrealers go to picnic and find quietude among the urban hustle n’ bustle. Grab a baguette, some cheese and a bottle of vino, and lounge under a maple tree.

[café] CAFÉO – Located conveniently along the great shopping stretch of Rue St. Denis, this cute bistro has beautiful art on the wall, free WiFi and floor to ceiling windows to watch the world go by.

[tourist info] BONJOUR PLATEAU – Get yourself a guided tour. Also, as you exit Metro Mont-Royal, there is a little kiosk to the left. Here you can obtain extra info on what is happening during your stay. Also, if you want to cover a bit more ground, rent a bicycle for the day.

[chocolate] SUITE 88 – You might feel like you are stepping into a jeweler as you walk through the doors of this chic chocolate boutique. And truth be told, you’re going to find some gems – chocolaty treasures that are the perfect gift for the folks back home.

[take-out] PATATI PATATA – A favorite among the locals, this hole-in-the-wall burger shack offers big portions for a small price. As a “friterie de luxe,” it’s your perfect place to pick up a poutine!

[smoked meat] SCHWARTZ’S DELI – The famous restaurant that’s been serving up its famous smoked meat since 1928. It is a culinary right-of-passage for all carnivorous travelers.

[festival] TAM TAMS – Each Sunday afternoon there is a drumming festival on the east side of Mont Royal Park; dine on a picnic, bang on a drum, meander among the vendors, feel the pulse of the city.

[modern furniture] BOULEVARD SAINT LAURENT – If you’re looking to find some new, inspired home furnishing to ship back home, the stretch between Rue Marie-Anne and Ave Mont-Royal is home to five or six stunning furniture boutiques.

[bar/music venue] DIVAN ORANGE – A vibrant space where local and international indie band congregate. Shows usually start around 9:30 PM. Food available.

[spa] ESPACE NOMAD – An organic oasis perfect for those who need pampering and consider themselves environmentally conscious.

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THE DETAILS

Plateau Boundaries

South: Sherbrook Boulevard
North: Rosemont Boulevard
East: De Lorimier Avenue
West: Parc Ave

Public Transit Access

Metro: Laurier, Sherbrooke or Mont-Royal Stations
Bus: #55, #10, #80,

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Finally, here’s a sweet little photo series that depicts some of the colors and charm of the Plateau.

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Lead photo by Luc Deveault. Please click through see his other Montreal images.

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