With 2013 fast approaching, we wanted to look back at some of the amazing moments that made 2012 so special and recognize and highlight all the amazing work our cameraman Guillaume Langlois has done. Please check out all of the videos on the Tourisme Montreal Youtube channel and we’ll see you next year!

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Oliver, his ex-boss and good friend, is merely a financial backer, who only visited the place for the first time a couple weeks ago. I, for one, have been back three three times since first trying Maison Publique’s brunch – and have yet to order something that wasn’t very tasty. The dishes, listed on a board, are hearty and sometimes quite heavy (like the English-style breakfast platter for two): not for the faint-hearted or the dieting nymphettes.

Some days, unctuous, wobbly bone marrow is drizzled with olive oil before being served with fat slices of toasted sourdough bread (the menu constantly changes). Foie gras pâté forms a tall mound atop more bread, in another indulgent appetizer.

The quiche, its filling nearly white from all the cream, is studded with pieces of lardons and soft, sweet onions (the very lightly-dressed greens on the side make for a nice contrast).

One night, I had a main course of tuna that was perfectly seared on the outside and raw and ruby-red inside, topped with greens, capers and fried croutons. But the specialty here is the offal, from the crisp slices of pig’s liver to the meltingly tender beef tongue served in a sandwich, with a generous pile of pillowy freshly-grated horseradish. Damman, who previously cooked at the extinct DNA in Old Montreal, is well-known for his expertise in butchering and preparing more and less common parts of beef, pork and other meats.

Desserts run along the same rich-and-rustic vein. Their cobbler served in a glass is a nice play on textures, although my favourite sweets are brunch items: the flaky apple pastry and the oh-so-fluffy pancakes with pear butter and top-quality maple syrup from Societé l’Orignal (whose foraged herbs and special oils, all local, are sold at the restaurant, during the day).

Other welcome touches are the all-Canadian wine selection and the expertly-brewed coffee. The only downside, if one can call it that, is how crowded it gets at peak hours. They don’t take reservations and there isn’t much room for those waiting, so my advice is to go very early and very hungry.

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THE DETAILS

Maison Publique, 4720 Marquette Street, (514) 507-0555

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It didn’t take long to figure out one of the key factors. It turns out that Hugue Dufour – an alum and ex-partner of Montreal’s most talked-about restaurant, Au Pied de Cochon, and a close friend of chef-owner Martin Picard – replicated the mothership’s style of cooking in Queens, New York. His M.Wells, set in a rickety diner, opened only last year and became an instant hit. Meat pie. Veal brains. Large cuts of pork and beef, served on the bone: New Yorkers ate it all up!

Au Pied de Cochon

It scored high marks from the critics, including glowing reviews in The New York Times and New York Magazine, and every article included the requisite nod to Au Pied de Cochon, the nose-to-tail temple where it all started. And then came a scorching feature in GQ magazine that bucked the trend of wide-eyed praise. The story is too long to re-tell here, but trust me, it’s a very fun read, if nothing else….

Aside from the avalanche of press on Hugue Dufour, other local chefs have merited their own fair share of ink. The new book by David McMillan and Fred Morin of Joe Beef (pictured at top), for example, will be featured prominently in the October edition of Food & Wine magazine. Titled The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, it will be launched officially on October 20 and it’s pretty obvious, judging by all the attention it’s already garnered, that it’ll be a smash. Already in September, the same magazine featured Fred and Dave’s Québec travel tips, plus their recipes for revamped Québecois classics, like Barley Soup with Scotch, and grilled cheese-and-bacon sandwiches with cheese curds. The duo’s star is definitely on the rise…

Grumman '78

In my own GQ piece on Montreal food, which is about to hit newstands in Brazil, I chose to focus on the city’s beloved taco truck, Grumman ’78. The three owner’s fine dining backgrounds, which is reflected in the unusually high quality of the street food they serve (one of them, Gaelle Cerf, worked at Au Pied de Cochon for eight years). If interested in having a taste and finding out why their tacos have become such a craze, you can always track the truck’s whereabouts on Twitter.

Le Filet

And the very same GQ, in its U.S. edition, recently published a piece – cheekily subtitled “Montreal: Europe Without the Eurotrash” – which highlights what writer Stan Parish sees as the city’s must-sees (in its online version it appears in slideshow form). Among them, a few restaurants I also count among my favourites, like the always fun L’Orignal and Joe Beef, the Quartier des Spectacles‘ great new addition Brasserie t!, Le Filet, and… you guessed it: the infamous Au Pied de Cochon.

Les 400 Coups

For a more in-depth account of what it’s like to eat at these top tables, you won’t want to miss the very thorough Montreal Food blog post by Dr. John Sconzo, a.k.a. Docsconz, from upstate New York. The Doc, as his countless foodie friends call him, is as respected for his balanced and well-researched musings on dining as he is for his actual work as a doctor. He travels the world to eat, knows several of the best restaurants and chefs and, while in town, managed to hit an impressive number of recommended addresses. These included many of the usual suspects, but also less obvious finds like Taverne Square Dominion and Les 400 Coups (the latter, one of my own favourites).

After the whirlwind eating marathon, he concluded: “It was reassuring to rediscover the culinary pleasures of this great city. It is as exciting as ever. Many of the old stalwarts like Toqué!, Au Pied de Cochon and Le Club Chasse et Pêche amongst others are still going strong while the new places are as exciting as I can remember… Montreal remains one of my favorite food cities on the continent. It won’t be so long before I return again.”

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THE DETAILS

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Café de Flore, an uncommon love story that spans decades, is told in a cross-cut back-and-forth style that showcases two very different landscapes—1960s Montmartre, where Vanessa Paradis’ character is a single mom of a young boy with Down syndrome, and present-day Montreal, where hometown actor Kevin Parent is navigating a thorny midlife crisis. The movie talks about that but what comes out is love, the power of love, the goodness of love and the destruction of love in all its forms.

“The script had me captivated and I lived very beautiful moments on set,” says Paradis. “I saw the film for the first time yesterday, and it was very clear to me that it’s about love, in all its forms—there is a bit of each character in all of us. It’s a movie that makes you think, and feel, and dialogue—while we were shooting, I felt inspired and full of oxygen and I relived that a bit last night while seeing the movie.”

Paradis says that she was attracted to the project by the script, as well as the prospect of working with Vallée, who also wrote the script. She says he’s a director who’s “all heart, as good at the emotional side of a story and the technical aspects of shooting a film,” and that she is looking forward to premiering the film in Montreal, a city she loves.

“The movie was born here, and it comes out in France a lot later,” she says. “The premiere in Montreal is the first time we’ll all be together with the Canadian cast and crew, it’ll be great.”

Vallée, for his part, says that though he adores shooting in Paris, he was happy to film half of his story at home in Montreal, where he was delighted to be able to ride a Bixi to work on-set—a rare privilege, he says.

“I had to shoot in Plateau Mont-Royal because it was a perfect setting for this story,” says Vallée. “My characters live near Parc Lafontaine and I shot in the park with all the chairs on Roy and St. André. Ultimately, the Plateau Mont-Royal was perfect to establish these characters and to setup a landscape that was totally different from the scenes in France. I still live there, I love it there, and it’s where my characters can flourish. The other place I’d like to live and work, is in the Mile-End, because you have Café Olympico and Genevieve Grandbois with her caramels a fleur de sel. Oh yes.”

The Café de Flore premiere and red carpet is on September 14 at the Cinéma Impérial. The film opens in theatres on September 23.

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Many a dandy dresser across Canada knows – and loves – Philippe Dubuc for his avant-garde men’s wear collection, which he sells at his eponymous boutique on St-Denis and online. (There’s a second location in Quebec City’s hip St-Roch neighbourhood.)

Dubuc’s women’s line, however, is a joint collaboration with Simons department store – whose green logo-ed storefront you must have seen on Montreal’s main shopping drag, rue St-Catherine. Now in its third instalment, Philippe Dubuc for Icône is a mainly black, 14-piece, capsule collection with subtle touches of earthy brown and “peachy beige taupe.”

The quintessential Philippe Dubuc photo campaign was set in a beat-up, abandoned space in the Plateau neighbourhood, lending a raw, ethereal background to showcase Dubuc’s willowy silk and jersey tops with symmetrical piping, airy tunic/dresses, long bold blazers, ultra suede pants, fitted shifts with geometric detailing and updated versions of the classic tank. I felt fortunate to get an advanced preview, and I assure you I will be first in line when it debuts next month.

One final shopping tip: Philippe Dubuc for Icône is a limited edition collection. Certain sizes get scooped up fast. Get there early before it’s too late.

THE DETAILS

Simons, 977 Ste-Catherine St. West, (514) 282-1840

Philippe Dubuc, 4451 St-Denis, (514) 282-1465

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Dispensing wine advice at restaurants is a job usually associated with men, so it’s great to see that Montreal bucks the trend. And with honours: Elyse Lambert (pictured above) for example, was voted best sommelière in the Americas in 2009 and travels often to the wine-producing regions of the world. While she’s become a bit of a celebrity in Montreal, her tips are part of the package when you have dinner at the super trendy Le Local, where she works. Elyse appears on a local TV show, tasting and dissecting wines in French – but she’s not the only sommelière who’s good on camera.

The beautiful Aurélia Filion of Le Club Chasse et Pêche restaurant (one of my favourites) – has created quite a buzz with the snappy videos she posts on her blog. She films herself talking about wine, in a room with bottles in the background. The result could have been massively boring, but she actually draws in the viewer with her unaffected enthusiasm and charisma.

Equally blonde and mignonne, sommelière Marie-Josée Beaudoin co-owns Montréal’s hottest new restaurant, Les 400 Coups and also finds time to blog. Her wine list is filled with surprising finds and her pairings can be refreshingly atypical. One hit currently on the menu is the glass of Jurançon (Château Jolys 2008) that is proposed with the impossibly delicious dessert called “Green” (apple granité, pistachios, olive oil, micro cilantro leaves, ultra-creamy white chocolate yogurt). Another bold choice is the local red wine sold by-the-glass (Chateau Taillefer Lafon 2006), made just north of Montreal in Laval. While not always a crowd-pleaser, it’s quite a curious discovery.

Working much further uptown than the three others, who are all in Old Montreal, Etheliya Hananova is one of the best things about the hip little restaurant Lawrence. She may draw stares from customers for her gorgeous looks, but gets her cred in the business from a solid formation and a shining personality. She’s on-hand almost every night to help regulars and newcomers alike navigate what food critic Lesley Chesterman of The Gazette calls “a great little wine list”.

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THE DETAILS

Lawrence, 5201 St-Laurent, (514) 503-1070

Le Local, 720 William, (514) 397-7737

Les 400 Coups, 400 Notre-Dame East, (514) 985-0400

Le Club Châsse et Pêche, 423 St-Claude, (514) 861-1112

Photo Credit: Andrea Doucet Donida, Alexandra Forbes

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Montreal is blessed with a variety of equally unique neighbourhoods. They stretch far and wide across this island and all deliver a different vibe from one another. This is mostly attributed to the locals that live there. The types of people that choose to live in a certain area give a specific ambiance or attitude to the establishments. When visitors come a-visiting, it can be overwhelming to take in all the differences this tiny island packs. So this is why I present you with: A Gay Boy Guide to the Neighbourhoods of Montreal!

Downtown Gay

The gays that live and play downtown come in all variations.They have one thing in common though; they like be in the center of the action. Student and professional gays mostly dominate downtown, because of the proximity to universities and all the office towers. I myself am a downtown gay. I like to walk places and have everything within spitting distance, whether it’s schools, restaurants, shopping, services or clubs. Because of downtown Montreal’s central location, the Plateau, the Old Port and the Lachine Canal are all a hop, jump and a skip away. Here are a few places that a gay could enjoy downtown:

Kafein (1429 Bishop, 514-904-6969)

Kafein used to be an extremely popular Concordia student hangout known for their hookah, sandwiches, cocktails and mish-mash maze of old sofas. Newly renovated, the hookah and old sofas have been replaced with a classic cocktail menu, cozy tables, new sofas and a more diverse clientele. The best part: $5 cocktails every weekday from 6-9PM. And these aren’t your average gin & tonics. We’re talking like fancy full-featured cocktails. Best drinking deal downtown, in my opinion.

Ferreira Café (1446 Peel, 514-848-0988)

Best Portuguese food downtown, and by extension, the city. Carlos Ferreira along with Executive Chef Marino Tavares and Sommelier Paulo Ferreira have worked hard to bring to you the best (seriously) that Portugal has to offer. From the food, wine, decor and service, everything screams Portuguese: All delicious, no pretension, simple good times. Reservation suggested.

Movie Theaters: If you want to catch a movie downtown, the two English theaters on Saint-Catherine are located just a 10 minute walk from each other. Cinema Banque Scotia (977 St-Catherine West) plays major releases with an IMAX and the AMC Forum 22 (2313 St-Catherine West) plays independent, foreign, and minor releases. Go on Tuesdays for the cheap seats!

Pullman (3424 Ave du Parc, 514-288-7779): Pullman wine bar is open late 7 days a week. The perfect friendly gathering place for friends. A massive wine selection to fit any budget and delicious finger foods to share makes Pullman my favorite choice for a low-key night out. I find Pullman to great enough to keep me coming back, but just subtle enough to never be obnoxious. The music is not too loud, the service is not too fast or slow, the decor is not insane. Pullman = simply good.

The Plateau / Mile End Gay

As trendy and relaxed as the Plateau itself, these Plateau/Mile End gays are a breed known for intellect, style and rolling their own cigarettes. They are artists, poets, dreamers, or they work in media. Don’t ask what they do in media, because they simply work in “media”. (So inside!) Find them here:

Laika (4040 St. Laurent Blvd. 514-842-8088)

Laika is a hybrid restaurant, cafe, bar, wifi space type-creature that is extremely popular with the Plateau/Mile-End gays. Restaurants because they love to eat, cafe because espresso is the only way to go, bar/lounge because a boy needs to drink, and wifi because they work in Media. Check this place out if you want to plug into the cool crowd!

L’Avenue (922 Mont Royal East, 514-523-9780): Breakfast, brunch, lunch, lunner or dinner, this place is busy for all meals of the day. On a Saturday morning at 10AM, the line down to block proves that the locals are serious about this place. Rumour has it that the electro punk decor and breakfast cure hangovers. Find many of the Plateau/Mile End gays here after blogging way too hard the night before at Laika.

The Old Port Gay

The Old Port Gay likes the luxurious living of Vieux-Montreal. They probably have their own consulting firm that consults on things like media. They like to peruse the streets in their Porsches, slip into the many galleries along Rue St. Paul to decorate their loft style apartment and wine-dine at the best restaurants in the city (located just steps from their building). Oh le sighs, the glamorous life of an Old Port gay:

Le Local (740 William, 514-397-7737)

Le Local was the hottest spot in Montreal when it opened a few year back, and it’s still got a fire going! Food, wine, and a price tag to match, could a hard-working gay ask for anything more? The perfect place to drop those hard earned dollars.

Olive & Gourmando (351 St. Paul W, (514) 350-1083)

At O+G, See the gay locals (gaoycals?) bolt in and out, slipping by the tourists as they grab their daily espresso from this breakfast/lunch staple located in the heart of Old Montreal. Queers generally just love this place. I go often because of the sandwiches, the raspberry lemonade and the cute boys (nay, the men!) that frequent here.

The W Hotel (901 Square Victoria, (514) 395-3100): The gays know what class looks like. So the W Hotel is brimming with refined gays of the Old Port. The Panorama Lounge has provided me with the most amazing cocktail I’ve ever had: The Pink Panther. I’m not sure what was in it, but I do know they had to carry me out after I tried to flirt my way to the recipe. Those bartenders are like bank vaults!

The post THE GAYS OF MONTREAL: THEY’RE EVERYWHERE appeared first on Tourisme Montréal Blog.

The festival itself, June 5-25, spans two venues, Sala Rossa and Casa del Popolo, situated in the neighbourhood of Mile End (we legally have to tell you that it’s “hip”), on St-Laurent, the city’s main party artery. What makes Suoni so great is that it grants concertgoers the opportunity to see artists that you probably won’t have a chance to see again, like the Syrian sensation Omar Souleyman, who is coming to play on June 13 at Sala Rossa.

This year boasts musicians like the Japanese gem Keiji Haino who has a baffling musical resume. He fronted a band that played psychedelic covers of songs by The Rolling Stones, The Ronettes and Jimi Hendrix and morphed them into garage psychedelia. He plays on June 10 at Sala. But if you want to see some real renegade jams, check out Satoko Fujii ma-do on June 19 at Sala Rossa.

The contemporary Baltimore outfit Future Islands is one of the best bands around right now; they team up with Montreal sweethearts Valleys for another excellent double bill on June 5 at Casa. But you’d be sorely remised if you don’t check out the talented Shalabi Effect and Volcano the Bear on June 8 for some homegrown music as well.

Speaking of locals, some of Montreal’s best are involved in some of the fest’s most anticipated shows. Junior Boys may be the first name on the June 11 bill, but you can be damn sure that much of the crowd will be there to see Montreal’s Miracle Fortress, who will be bringing along his brand-new album, Was I the Wave? Another hugely hyped show with be Colin Stetson‘s June 17 apperance at Sala. Stetson may have grown up in Michigan and only lived in Montreal for 4 years, but he’s played with Tom Waits, Arcade Fire, Feist, Bon Iver, Laurie Anderson, Lou Reed, David Byrne, Sinead O’Connor, LCD Soundsystem, to name just a bunch, and his new album solo album, New History Warfare Vol. 2: Judges, is an incredible piece of artisty, so we’re claiming him as our own.

Because Free Jazz has always been the real Suoni vibe, their Free Jazz series is where you should be. Even if you haven’t heard of the artists, trust that they’re the best of the best. Now just to be clear, what Suoni means by “free jazz” is simply that the music is informed by an “exploration” of sound”, so there’s no need to recoil.  Check out David S. Ware on June 13 and Charles Gayle on June 8 among others from all over the world.

The Illuminated Music series is a showcase of Canadian avant-garde and experimental musicians in a multimedia performance paired with video installations and live graphics throughout the performances. Because Suoni is typically a community-oriented festival, they’re offering a free Tools of the Trade workshops with Palestinian hip-hop artist Shadia Monsour. These workshops are geared toward aspiring musicians who wish to learn about different approaches to music. Expect some audience participation to make the affair less formal and encourage a free environment where people feel comfortable participating. These talks are generally 2 to 3 hours in length and are centered around a performance.

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THE DETAILS

Suoni Per Il Popolo, June 5-June 25, 2011

Sala Rossa, 4848 Saint-Laurent, (514) 844-4227

Casa Del Popolo 4873 Saint-Laurent, (514) 284-3804

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So it comes as no surprise that Le Filet, the fish-and-seafood version of Chasse et Pêche, has been packed since day one. Working in their favour, besides keeping the flagship resto’s cooking steadily excellent over time, are the relatively low prices and the novelty factor of speacializing in things from lake and sea in a town not known for that.

If you like extra-attentive service, white tablecloths and a certain sense of occasion, stick with the always classy and romantic Chasse et Pêche, which, at its Old Montreal address, is easier to get to for most out-of-towners. But if you love the loud hum of a popular new place and prefer your dinners easy and informal, Le Filet should be on your must-try list. The place, with a long bar and an open kitchen, is always hopping with a hip-and-youngish crowd, decibels bouncing off the metallic wall panelling.

And the food? As expected, on the night of my visit, it was stellar. Pelletier and Marsolais have had help with that: chef Yasu Okazaki, also a partner, is the whiz manning the stoves. (A fourth partner, Patrick St-Vincent, is a sommelier who really knows his stuff and put together a very impressive wine list.)

If Club Châsse et Pêche built its reputation partly on the always excellent surf’n’turf dish, at Le Filet, too, they play that card to great effect. The heavenly, buttery and golden black cod came with tiny chorizo croutons. An oh-so-crispy scallop sat atop a melt-in-your-mouth chunk of pork shank oozing its juices onto the silky polenta that served as a base. The lobster and breaded sweetbreads were nearly as delicious, their textures a slight bit too similar to stand out.

As we head into spring and the days grow longer, one good idea is to go for an afternoon stroll around the Plateau neighbourhood (the restaurant sits across from the public tennis courts and a short walk from both Mount Royal Park and Saint Laurent Boulevard), and leisurely make it to Le Filet on foot or by bike for an early dinner (the place doesn’t open for lunch).

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THE DETAILS

Le Filet, 219 Mont-Royal West, (514) 360-6060

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In elementary school, I learned in French class that “faire la grasse matinée” means “to sleep in late”. This is a fitting phrase since it literally means, “to make a fat morning.” Personally, I like to take that “fat” part seriously and spend the day indulging in comfort foods (I make up for it at the gym during the week). And what better way is there to catch up with my girlfriends for a post-week debriefing than over brunch in the hip-as-heck neighbourhood known as the Plateau? Here are some favourites…

My first go-to spot is Beauty’s, located on busy Mont-Royal Avenue, so a great place to start the day before checking out the indie fashion boutiques and vintage shops. I like it not just because the octogenarian owner Hymie is a living legend and has been greeting and seating guests since post-war Montreal, but because their all-day breakfast is always fresh and never lets me down. I like the Beauty’s Basic: eggs, bacon (or sausage) and potatoes, and always order it with a tall glass of OJ (squeezed on-site), coffee (it’s bottomless), and a toasted St-Viateur bagel with a side of fluffy cream cheese that comes in a cute little tub. For my gal pals forever in bikini-mode, there are also some low cal options. Do note at Beauty’s that there are a few booths that fit up to six people, but there can be line-ups for those, even in a snowstorm. If you’re in a rush and brunching solo, counter seats usually free up faster than the banquettes.

When I’m feeling more boho French, nothing beats Toi, Moi et Café (deliciously pictured above). Owner Sevan Istanboulian is a certified judge at the Canadian Barista Championship; needless to say, I doubt your cappuccino will disappoint. Check out my post about Shopping on Laurier West where I rave about the must-order menu item, La Parisienne, as well as point out the best shops on that street. In warmer weather they have one of the best patios in the neighbourhood. They also have free Wi-Fi and never get mad when I spend hours there, so feel free to surf on your laptop for as long as you like as you plan out your day’s itinerary.

Another good option a little further east is Chez Cora. Their presentations of fruit are so pretty, it may be hard to eat them. The crowd varies from young families to amorous couples to bands of besties. If you’re a crepe or omelette fan, you may like the “crepomelette,” which is basically a wrap rolled with cheddar and hollandaise sauce poured on top. For above-mentioned bikini-gals, there’s the Peggy plate that comes with one poached egg on whole wheat toast, cottage cheese and fruit.

Another popular spot is Eggspectations. Portions here are huge and the opening times are early. If you’re up at 7 o’clock in the morning (what planet are you from?) or if maybe you’re on European time, almost any kind of egg dish you can imagine will be ready and waiting, and with a hot cuppa joe. While you decompress from your brunch coma, why not chill out on the white leather couches at Rouge Nail Bar just one block north and get a group manicure? Strength in numbers, I say. There’s a nice flat screen TV to help you zone out. If you’ve seen all the episodes of Sex & the City too many times, ask for the other chick flicks they have in their in-salon library. But honestly, just between us girls, is there really such a thing as too much Carrie and company?

A secret Plateau gem is surely the unassuming, industrial chic of Café Névé, where it seems all the local hipsters hang out, especially those who take their coffee seriously. Pastries are heaven sent here, or at least baked on location- thank goodness for open kitchens. Breakfast options are “student-friendly” (author’s’ words), attracting a steady stream of university undergrads who drop by with laptops under their arm.

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THE DETAILS

Beauty’s, 93 Mont-Royal West, (514) 849-5908

Toi, Moi et Café, 244 Laurier West. (514) 279-9599

Chez Cora, 1396 Mont-Royal East, (514) 525-9495

Eggspectations, 198 Laurier West, (514) 278-6411

Café Névé, 151 Rachel East (514) 903-9294

Photo Credit: Toi, Moi et Cafe ©- Mo Riza, Cafe Neve ©- Eva Blue

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